Holly Fulton’s spring/summer 2015 collection is an ode to sun-worship, folk art and free expression. Inspirations range from ancient to modern. Symbolic depictions of the sun assembled in Walter Herdeg’s book Die Sonne in Der Kunst (1964) to the Scottish artist J D Fergusson’s cubist-derived sculpture of the sun goddess Eastra, inspired by his partner the dancer Margaret Morris.
Often pictured adorned with flowers, Morris responded to the vitality of nature and, in 1940, formed the Celtic Ballet Club, combining spontaneous movement with Scottish traditions. They are the season’s muses. These clothes are decorated in folkloric magic but grounded in the precision of Modernism. Sunglasses designed in collaboration with Cutler and Gross have striped sunburst frames and mirrored lenses. Bags are perfect squares and the enamel jewellery spherical and oversized.
This season’s prints are made up of tessellating triangles and primary shape appearing as monastic columns down the front of A line dresses and framing panels of placement on shirts. Graphic florals are panelled and patchworked, overlayed with crystal and lasercut components. Based on the folk canal art of the Roses and Castles movement, which covers every part of a narrowboat in decoration, geometric bouquets flourish across the body and swag necklines. Tiny beetles are rendered in metal and creep across patent strapping. Colours are ripe and Arcadian. Verdant green, poppy red, opulent navy and black recall the lacquered surface of glossy, wooden barges. Fresh lemon yellow and sandy neutrals are set alongside sun-bleached pink and pastel blue.
Hand folded and woven organza, punched patent leather, crisp Crêpe De Chine and colour blocked coolwool all contribute to a look that is elegant yet rooted in handicraft and the popular arts. The collection expands upon the innovative use of high gloss film in detailed layers and new ways of bonding material to form rich appliqued surfaces. Fulton’s collaboration with Woolmark is explored through the use of Japanese lightweight Nikke cool wool, Holland and Sherry fine worsteds and merino knitwear. The silhouette is longer and away from the body. Sleeves are wider. Dresses, which are cut to midi length, evoke the stance and sway of Morris.